By Amy Pigeon
Purity, precision, artistry, and heart. Some restaurants serve meals, others tell stories. But DaNico, nestled in the grandeur of one of Toronto’s most striking historical buildings, does something greater still – it orchestrates an experience – weaving together past and future, indulgence and warmth, opulence and ease.
We arrived long before opening, the city outside still stretching into wakefulness. The towering entrance gave way to a space that held the same breathtaking stillness as a magnificent duomo in Italy – where the sheer scale, the play of light against stone, and the weight of history itself command quiet awe. DaNico inspires that same reverence – an invitation to look closer and to step deeper into something sacred. My father and I were here to meet Chef Daniele Corona, the culinary mastermind and partner behind DaNico, and the visionaries who brought it to life – Nick and Nadia Di Donato.
An ode to atmosphere and art
Even before stepping inside, the entrance hints at something spectacular to come. A set of imposing wooden doors looms grandly, a portal to a different world, hugged by Versace tiles – a tribute to Italian luxury. Every element of the design – every texture, every line – works in tandem to create an atmosphere that is both dramatic and inviting, the intersection of extravagance and intimacy.
Part gallery, part theatre – DaNico is a tribute to craftsmanship, art, and beauty. True to Italian form with an innate, paramount value of respect, Nadia Di Donato’s masterpiece pays tribute to the building’s storied foundations while breathing new life into its majesty. Soaring ceilings and sumptuous, green velvet banquettes frame a striking sense of space. Baroque artworks conjure an unseen magnetism, while a Salvador Dalí sculpture – a casually placed masterpiece – anchors the room. A reminder that the extraordinary is not out of reach. This is the magic of the Di Donato legacy – an ability to curate luxury that feels personable, warm, approachable, and kind but never ostentatious.
The walls, like a grand gallery, are adorned with a collaborative collection by Max Jamali and Peter Triantos, whose gilded, textured canvases shimmer in the dim light, their rich layers of gold leaf and crystal embellishments exuding an almost divine glow. Their work merges rich details with abstract expressionism, bridging the worlds of contemporary glamour and timeless artistry – a fitting element for a space that itself straddles history and modernity.
To be recognized at that level – it’s an honour, but also a responsibility. It means continuing to push, to evolve, to uphold the traditions that define Italian cuisine while daring to bring something new.
— CHEF DANIELE CORONA
Adding to the restaurant’s striking visual narrative as well is a provocative piece by Mr. Brainwash, a renowned street artist known for his bold, pop-culture-infused works that challenge perception. Here, his piece disrupts the gothic decadence of DaNico with vibrant contrast – an emblem of modern rebellion woven seamlessly into a setting steeped in old-world regality. The juxtaposition feels intentional, an unspoken dialogue between tradition and disruption, refinement and boldness. It is this very balance – a respect for the past paired with the daring vision to push beyond it – that defines not just the art on the walls, but the artistry that unfolds in the kitchen.
Chef Daniele Corona: an artist in Italian elegance and embrace
Daniele Corona echoes the language and intention of DaNico’s design – honouring tradition while challenging boundaries. In his hands, Italian cuisine is not simply preserved; it is questioned, reimagined, and refined. Each dish carries both the weight of history and the breath of something entirely new. Sitting across from chef Daniele Corona, I could feel the quiet intensity of a chef who has not only mastered his craft but continues to evolve it. A visionary, a technician, and an artist – his reputation precedes him, yet it is his passion, not his accolades (although wildly impressive), that fills the space. To hear Chef Daniele Corona speak of his journey, his inspirations, and his relentless pursuit of mastery was a joy.
Born in Napoli, he carries the spirit of his city within him. Napoli is a city of passion, of deep culinary traditions, of food rich in the stories of generations of its people. And yet, Daniele does not merely replicate – it is in the delicate balance of devotion and innovation that his artistry shines, taking risks with daring flavour and ingredient combinations while evoking the warmth of home and Napolitane hospitality.
He spoke of his mentors, of chef Alfonso Iaccarino, whom he calls a “culinary god” to Neapolitans. Of the lessons that shaped him – elegance, restraint, and allowing flavours to speak without shouting – things that are not easy to do in the chaos of a kitchen. He spoke of his journey – from Italy to Canada, from Don Alfonso 1890 Toronto, where he earned his first Michelin star, to DaNico, where he earned his second. Now becoming the first Italian chef in Canada to hold Michelin stars at two different restaurants. And yet, as he said with a quiet smile – “the hardest part is not earning the star, it’s keeping it. Then, there are more stars to earn.” The power and energy of excellence this man holds for himself and his team is palpable.
When I was a child, my nonna’s Christmas kitchen was like a secret world. She would start cooking two days before Christmas Eve, and everything she made – pastries, sauces, seafood – was locked away in a special room…But one time, I found the key. I snuck in, sampled a little of everything. I thought I had gotten away with it. The next day? Disaster.
— CHEF DANIELE CORONA
And then, an even greater personal distinction – Daniele Corona named 50 Top Italy’s Chef of the Year. To be singled out among the world’s greatest Italian chefs is to be named among the architects of Italy’s most precious traditions. “It’s surreal,” he admitted. “There are so many incredible chefs, chefs I’ve admired my whole life. To be recognized at that level – it’s an honour, but also a responsibility. It means continuing to push, to evolve, to uphold the traditions that define Italian cuisine while daring to bring something new.”
We shifted gears from success to emotion, as we so often like to do at VeraVita. Food, especially in Italian culture, holds profound meaning to identity, memory, and personal feelings. I asked chef Daniele what was one of his core or favourite memories surrounding food. A mischievous grin swept over his face, lighting up instantly, like he had been eagerly anticipating this moment to share this story.
“When I was a child, my nonna’s Christmas kitchen was like a secret world. She would start cooking two days before Christmas Eve, and everything she made – pastries, sauces, seafood – was locked away in a special room. She had the only key.” He laughed, shaking his head, lost in the memory. “The smell that came from that room was unbelievable. I wanted in. But she was careful. But one time, I found the key. I snuck in, sampled a little of everything. I thought I had gotten away with it.” Another chuckle. “The next day? Disaster. She knew immediately. Just by looking at the trays.”
There, in that moment, was everything that makes Daniele who he is – his deep connection to food as memory, as family, as an unbroken thread linking past and present. And it is this sensibility that permeates every plate at DaNico we had the privilege of experiencing.
A devotion to taste, tradition, and transformation
The tasting menu was a journey through Daniele’s culinary philosophy, where Italian tradition, Canadian terroir, and Japanese precision converge into a seamless, expressive adventure – each dish a meditation on balance, seasonality, and refined poise.
Before the courses even began, we were greeted by our graceful and skilled server, Mirko, with freshly baked artisan bread, including a focaccia so impossibly airy and fragrant, I feared my favourite carbohydrate would be ruined for me forever – delicately crisp on the outside, pillowy within, kissed with olive oil and a whisper of sea salt. It was the best I ever had. We proceeded to the aperitivo, with a selection of canapés designed to excite the palate for the culinary journey to follow.
We began the main event with Tonno-Tonnato, a reimagination of the Piemontese classic. Here, veal was replaced by Japanese Chutoro tuna, kissed with salsa tonnata, kohlrabi, pine nuts, and a delicate burst of sturgeon caviar. A dish that did not merely fuse elements, but rather allowed them to exist in effortless harmony, proving that the best innovation often lies in the subtlest of details.
The Cervo, Castagne e Melograno was a dance between decadence and delicacy. Silky, preserved chestnut purée, almost foie gras-like in powerful flavour, served as an unexpected and beautiful base. The Ontario venison, sublimely velvety upon first bite, paired perfectly with the chestnut lending a gentle sweetness, while the pomegranate jus cut through with a touch of acidity.
Then came the Spaghettoni Al Funghi Locali e Tartufo Nero, a perfect encapsulation of DaNico’s cross-cultural influences.“We don’t merely boil it in water,” Daniele explained to me earlier. Instead, the pasta absorbs the essence of an Ontario mushroom broth, a technique inspired by the Japanese method of infusion cooking, creating a dish that is both umami-rich and deeply evocative of Piedmont’s forested landscapes. The dish was completed with 24-month Parmigiano foam and crowned with freshly shaved Italian black truffle – a love letter to the earthy depths of Piedmont’s woodlands yet distinctly rooted in Canada’s own terroir.
Following that, the Merluzzo Nero, Vermouth e Caviale arrived – a dish that spoke in ethereal, buttery textures. Marinated in a miso glaze, the black cod flaked effortlessly dissolving on the tongue, while a silky, sophisticated, and aromatic white vermouth sauce layered a refined depth of flavour into each bite.
The showstopper of the evening, of course, was the Il Manzo – a masterclass in indulgence and restraint. Seared to perfection, the wagyu tenderloin, marinated for 12 hours, might as well have been butter – so silken, it melted in my mouth as quickly as it melted my heart. Paired with a wasabi and ginger sauce to brighten the palate, along with a smokey edible ash charcoal, these additional flavours and textures made for a stunning triad of gustatory delight. Served with shishito peppers and baby bok choy in sesame seeds on the tiniest little dish-sized grill, this plate demands to be relished.
Guiding us through each pairing, our exceptional sommelier, Jeff, transformed wine into narrative—crafting vivid tales as captivating as the wines themselves. He led us our journey through Italian vineyards – introducing us to the elegant, saline-kissed Casale del Giglio Belloné, the peppery intrigue of Verduno Castello di Verduno, and the aged complexity of Vigneti Massa Monleale – a 2015 vintage from the rising wine regions of Piedmont. The experience was heightened by Spiegelau’s flexible wine glasses, whose delicate stems swayed ever so slightly – a playful dance of form and function, a small but remarkable detail in an evening defined by them.
It was in the finer details as well that DaNico’s hospitality shone. When my father left the table for a moment, Mirko, our server, reset his napkin within seconds, an act of attentiveness so seamless it felt almost choreographed. Throughout the night, the service was precise yet unobtrusive, fluid yet intentional – a consistent delivery we have experienced across each of our touchpoints at Liberty Entertainment Group establishments – a testament to Nick Di Donato’s dedication to Italian hospitality at the highest level.
By the time dessert arrived, we were entirely entranced. La Foglia D’Oro, a mandarin parfait and marmalade with spiced chai foam, a perfectly sweetened and earthy charred walnut ice cream, and an ethereal breath of gold leaf, with flavours echoing the aromatic notes of a panettone, was the final indulgence – a golden note on which to end an unforgettable evening.
Nick and Nadia do not build spaces – they build stories. And at the heart of this one is chef Daniele Corona – a man and partner who understands that food is more than sustenance. It is memory. It is family.
DaNico is a destination that pays homage to the past while daring to create the future. A space where each detail – from the art to the architecture, to the final flourish on the plate – whispers of something special.
“I want guests to feel me through the dish,” chef Daniele Corona told us earlier.
And as the last glimmer of gold and citrus faded on my palate, I knew – we truly had. – VV
Visual credits: Photography by Scott Lennon, Videography by Films First, Production by Amy Pigeon
