By Thomas Pigeon
In the heart of Tuscany, my love affair with this enchanting land began with the pages of Frances Mayes’ captivating novel, Under the Tuscan Sun. Her words wove a spell that beckoned me to the sun-drenched hills, where I could feel the gentle touch of the Tuscan breeze and have my soul nourished by the warmth of the Italian sun. Little did I know that this literary journey would lead me to live out the very script of the book that had sparked my wanderlust.
Many years ago, I had a serendipitous encounter with Jan Stackhouse, a vivacious New Zealander who has made Italy her home. It was a chance meeting in Lago di Garda. She mentioned at the time that she had a lovely Airbnb and that I should visit one day. I remember the first time I picked up the phone to confirm our booking with this energetic lady. With her infectious energy and spirited voice, she brought to life the experience of Cook in the Tuscan Sun. Nestled in the picturesque towns of Porto in Umbria, neighboring Castiglione del Lago and the sister city of Cetona in Toscana, Jan has curated a delightful package of cooking, dining, and wine tasting that is sure to delight even the most discerning culinary enthusiasts.
I recently joined Jan and her chef to partake in crafting classic Tuscan dishes. After a warm welcome, our culinary adventure began with the creation of a sumptuous ragù, made from the region’s renowned cinghiale (wild boar). As the vegetables and herbs from the garden gently simmered alongside, we indulged in a glass of local white wine, begrudgingly sharing some of it with the recipe to infuse the savory sauce. The meat was seasoned and browned, and then came the real labor of love—crafting our own tagliatelle from scratch. The dough, made from silky 00 flour, eggs, and water, required a level of energy akin to a vigorous workout.
Pasta making, which looks effortless in cooking videos, is anything but. Too much water creates a sticky mess; too little, and you’re left with something akin to sawdust. With the right balance of ingredients and proper kneading, you achieve pasta perfection. Our host wasn’t kidding when she said it would be hard work, and after a half-hour of vigorous rolling, this tourist chef tapped out. Meanwhile, the cinghiale slowly simmered on the stovetop, browning to just the right hue.
Our hand-crafted fresh pasta was ultimately cooked to perfection, resulting in a divine Tagliatelle con Ragù di Cinghiale. No true Italian dish is complete without a glass of wine by its side. We paired our game dinner with a robust Brunello from Banfi in Montalcino. Fabulous! It was an excellent primer to joining the chef’s husband in the field on a traditional wild boar hunt the following morning—but more on that in a future VeraVita article.
Our culinary journey continued with Polpettone Bollito, a Tuscan-style meatloaf. Dried bread soaked in milk, grated Italian Parmesan cheese, and a bouquet of seasonings were expertly combined with lean ground meat, forming a tantalizing mixture. To my surprise, it was gently placed into a pot of boiling water with a medley of vegetables, simmering into a sumptuous dish.
To conclude our feast, we indulged in the most exquisite tiramisu I have ever tasted. Layers of creamy mascarpone, cocoa powder, and coffee liqueur were assembled with delicate biscuits, creating a decadent dessert we couldn’t resist. Though our host strongly suggested letting it set overnight, our impatience won, and we savored it that very evening, naturally accompanied by a brilliant glass of Vin Santo.
In Italy, cooking is not just a skill but a cherished part of the culture—a reason to bring family and friends together. At Jan’s Cook in the Tuscan Sun class, one truly feels part of an Italian family. As the day’s session ended, we gathered around a large table, emptied countless bottles of exquisite Italian reds, and shared laughter and memories, leaving with hearts full of joy.
Back at Jan’s Airbnb, as the sun set over Lago Chiusi, we relaxed in the rustic yet comfortable accommodations at La Dimora del Lago, gazing into the fire with a final glass of local wine. Sleep, well-earned, came soon enough.
Jan’s culinary vacations are not just about food and wine; they also include day trips to local wineries in Montepulciano, Montalcino, and Chianti, as well as visits to olive oil producers and towns of cultural and historic significance. With several days of cooking classes, fabulous accommodations, and endless hours basking in the Tuscan sun—combined with a wealth of Italian history and lore imparted by my dear friend Jan Stackhouse, an esteemed academic—these experiences are a treasure at any price.
Buon appetito! – VV
Photos by Thomas Pigeon & Unsplash.
