By Thomas Pigeon
Those who know how to taste do not merely drink wine but savor its secrets.
— SALVADOR DALI
Walking through a vineyard at first morning light quite likely ranks as one of my most favourite things to do. The pungent mustiness of the terroir greeting your olfactory glands, the dappling of light filtering through the vines, the rustling of the autumn leaves under foot and the wing beats of a flight of migrating birds in October—all signal the time to harvest the latest of grapes in Toscana. The magnificent Sangiovese grape is underway. This varietal is renowned for its contribution to making the powerful “Vino Nobile”, the wine of choice for many full-bodied red wine lovers worldwide.
My journey to the esteemed Fattoria Svetoni winery in Montepulciano began with a recommendation from our friend Gerrard at Tre Amici Wines in Canada. When Gerrard suggests a visit, you know an exceptional experience awaits.
Fattoria Svetoni is a lovely producer of incredible big, bold Vino Nobile. Built from the resident Sangiovese grape, the Vino Nobile is a force to be reckoned with and ranks high on the list of wine aficionados. The winery dates back to 1865 and has continuously performed and produced exceptional wines.
I had my first glass of Vino Nobile at a table with my good friend Cristian at Enoteca la Dolce Vita several years ago. He said “I know you live in the north, Thomas, and no doubt love your Amarone and big Valpolicellas, but the Vino Nobile finds its home here and has a certain specialness to it”. And to be certain, it does! As you “nose” your glass of Vino Nobile it has a deliciously present aroma of ripe cherries and plums, and, from this writer’s perspective, occasional spiciness and a touch of coffee. It is the perfect balance of structure and elegance. It’s a full-bodied beast noted for its tannins and touch of acidity. It’s a joy to behold and a delight when it graces your palate.
The name “Vino Nobile di Montepulciano” hearkens back hundreds of years to when it first graced the tables of nobility in the ancient town of Montepulciano, located just minutes from the door steps of Fattoria Svetoni.
As a food accompaniment it goes exceptionally well with wild game such a cinghiale (wild boar), cervo (venison) and coniglio (rabbit). Additionally, it’s a very happy companion to any robust pasta dish.
As I turned the corner and entered the estate of Fattoria Svetoni I knew I was in for a special treat. The “agriturismo” industry has sprouted a variety of multi-dimensional wineries in Toscana, offering accommodation, entertainment, spas, dining and of course, wine tasting. Putting all these ingredients together into one harmonious dish is like crafting great classical music coming from potentially disjointed musicians and hopefully culminating into a work of art. Not all succeed. However, at Fattoria Svetoni, it’s like a greater being had a vison, and surely a plan, to deliver the best of the best. This winery and its approach to agriturismo hits on every note. There’s an understated elegance to this estate. Beautiful touch points of gardens and quiet sitting areas, and a most welcoming, well-lit swimming pool to sit at on a warm summer’s eve. And so much more!
Much to my delight, my good Canadian friend Jennifer Love of Duet Public Relations and her husband Adam, also new Tuscan residents, decided to join me on our two-day adventure at Fattoria Svetoni. After hugs and laughter, we were greeted by Sig. Antimo Prencipe, one of the partners in the winery and the resort’s manager. Antonio is a gem of a human being that I am certain has wine running through his veins and surely through his soul. He lit up with enthusiasm when I suggested we move the wine tasting, (traditionally done on their lovely terrace), down to the cellar where thousands of litres of Vino Nobile were resting in their wooden casks patiently awaiting their time to come.
The tour was brief as the winery is small but ever so special, and, of course, we were most anxious to sample their wines. With a production of 50,000+ bottles per year, it allows Fattoria Svetoni to carefully tend to each and every bottle that graces the tables of their future patrons. I fully understand the mechanics and industrial benefit of stainless tanks, and in some cases, cement for holding wine, but to me the wood is where the magic is. Often, French oak is used, year after year, painstakingly cleaned, and then laid to rest before being ready to receive each year’s crop. As we wandered through the cellar we stopped at a cask and I asked “might I taste from the barrel?” “Of course”, Antimo pleasantly replied. I’ve often said the experience and the environment confers a unique taste experience to every glass of wine. The wine trickled from the barrel into my glass, as I raised it to my lips the bouquet was simply lovely and the taste a true delight. There’s a musty magical aroma to a vintage wine cellar that is irrefutable, so what better a place to taste a flight of the brilliant wines hand crafted here in Toscana.
From tasting the younger blends of Rosso di Toscana to the richer deeper tones of the more robust and older principally Sangiovese Nobile di Montepulciano “La Croce” DOCG, joy was in the air. It was a unique and rare experience to sit in the very place where the wine is crafted and indulge in the magic of the grape. It’s a remarkably different sensory experience, as if you have become part of the process, part of the vintner’s journey, somehow bonded to the very wine you are lusting over.
I ask every wine maker I have ever met “so what makes you different?” I’ve yet to have anyone say anything different; it’s the passion, the care, the love of wine making, the terroir, and, they all compete in the court of public opinion for share of wine and share of palate. And yet somehow they carve out a unique niche for their wineries, of course based on taste and quality, but amplified by the emotional belief, if not hope, of their customers. Branding, to be certain, plays a role and Fattoria Svetoni does a lovely job of designing labels and presenting their products in a premium light. But to be certain, there was a magical special feeling when I sat drinking wine with my friends, laughing, storytelling and listening to the wine maker describe in terribly elegant terms his wine that surely brings the wine to life. The winery at Fattoria Svetoni adheres to ancient wine making traditions such as employing glass airlocks on top of the barrels—a device said to be invented by Leonardo da Vinci, which, again, is an added dimension to their commitment to wine making excellence.
However, the Fattoria Svetoni experience goes well beyond wine. It their sense of hospitality brought together, in their very special and yet simply appointed rooms. Their brand was artfully displayed from the bedding, to towels, to robes, even the bathroom toiletries. It’s the comfort of their beds as the lights dim and you drift off, wrapped in the magical embrace of their bedding as your weary body sinks into bliss. It’s a sip of lovely tea and a steam at the end of a long day in their mini spa.
And surely, it’s the indulgence of dining at their Michelin-starred restaurant, Osmosi, where Chef Mirko Marcelli weaves his culinary magic.
You see, to this world traveler, wine without food is simply wine. Which is not to suggest it’s not magical alone, but when it’s paired with a brilliant menu offering, it takes the wine experience to a whole new level. Great wine and great cuisine are best served up to dreamers—hopeful believers that a new sensorial experience is just around the corner. And when they arrive together, not in a collision, but rather in a soft, elegant, sensual ballet …a new level of magic happens! Such is the case at Osmosi.
Osmosi owners, Simone and Elena transformed an old farmhouse overlooking Sangiovese and Merlot vineyards at Fattoria Svetoni, into a fine dining restaurant, blending experience with innovation. Their professional partnership was born out of a mutual passion for welcoming people into their home and around their table. After several successful ventures they realized an opportunity that would allow them to focus on a superior dining experience through the creation of an exceptionally high level of cuisine. Thus began Osmosi. Under Simone and Elena’s guidance and with Chef Mirko Marcelli at the helm in the kitchen, it garnered a Michelin Star in 2024, catapulting it to the front of the must dine/must visit experiences in Toscana.
Osmosi’s celebrated chef, Chef Mirko Marcelli, is an unassuming soul. Originally from Velletri, his culinary talent developed in Rome working alongside masters such as Heinz Beck and Luigi Nastri. Today, Chef Mirko is celebrated for his distinct flavour compositions made using simple and unique ingredients that balance and enhance one another when combined on the plate. Eating at a table graced by the food of Chef Mirko’s creations is a visual delight and an explosion of excitement to your taste buds. Each dish is preciously curated, prepared, and gently presented to awaiting guests. From a sensational mushroom dish with celeriac, red fruits and chicken skin to a wondrous ravioli with pheasant, cabbage and horseradish to pork with turnip greens and black garlic, kimchi and bagna cauda, to the most amazing risotto with brown butter, gentian root, and cedar, each dish brings its own magic and easily underscores why this master garnered a Michelin Star for Osmosi. A truly memorable and exceptional dining experience in wine country! Naturally, each dish was brilliantly paired with wines from the Fattoria Svetoni vineyards as well as those curated in the restaurant’s exceptional 3,000-bottle cellar.
As the day came to an end, and the sun slowly set, as with all great experiences, I had an inner calm, as a sense of joyful bliss crept over me. Great wine, great dining, fabulous accommodation combined with conversations with good friends is simply La Dolce Vita. Life is surely to be lived and savored. Life, thanks to Fattori Svetoni during my brief and indulgent respite, was elevated to a higher level of elegance and specialness, permitting this writer to bring back memories that will be etched in my mind and palate for ever. – VV
Photography by Drew P. and provided by Fattoria Svetoni
Somewhere I’m going to try soon thanks to your mouthwatering article!