Bellezza e Salute

When scent becomes self: the art of Italian perfumery

By Daniela Sfara

I’ve always found beauty in the seemingly insignificant. It’s fascinating how something so small, so invisible, can alter the way we carry ourselves through the world. Think of it: the cut of a dress, the crisp line of a suit, even the gleam of well-polished shoes—none of it feels entirely complete until that last, almost imperceptible gesture: the release of a mist that suspends itself in the air before settling against the skin. It is not a garment, nor is it a jewel, and yet it shapes how others see us and, more profoundly, how we see ourselves. A mere spray, elusive and weightless, can change our posture, slow our step, even tilt the chin with an unspoken confidence. It sharpens or softens, cloaks or reveals, and does so with a mystery no accessory could ever claim. Long before we think of names or bottles, it is this invisible aura that calls attention not to itself but to the one who wears it, binding memory, mood, and identity in ways the eye cannot grasp but the senses know immediately.

From the beginning of civilization, humans have sought ways to capture the fleeting beauty of scent. Ancient Mesopotamians burned resins in rituals, Egyptians infused oils with blossoms for both worship and seduction, and the Greeks and Romans carried vials of fragrant balms as markers of refinement and power. In those early societies, perfume was never frivolous; it was sacred, medicinal, and political even—a way to commune with the divine, preserve the body, and distinguish the elite from the ordinary. What began as smoke rising from altars or petals crushed into unguents soon became an art of preservation and memory, traveling through centuries and across empires, until scent was no longer just a privilege of nobility but a universal language of the senses. The nose, more than the eyes or ears, has always known how to reach memory’s deepest corridors, pulling us back instantly to moments, faces, and places thought forgotten.

A single fragrance can feel like history in miniature: both ancient in its lineage and startlingly personal the instant it touches the skin.

It’s no wonder that Italy, second only to France in the world of exquisite luxury fragrances, has cultivated a heritage of scent that is as refined as it is deeply personal. What sets Italian perfumery apart, at least from my perspective, is the way its creations elicit not just admiration but a feeling of poise and quiet sophistication, as though they were made to be lived with rather than merely sprayed as a finishing touch. They drape around you like a tailored garment, becoming part of your presence rather than an embellishment to it.

Within the cloisters of Santa Maria Novella in Florence, where Dominican friars first began their work in 1221, a monastic garden became the heart of something extraordinary. Rosemary, lavender, citrus, and rose were gathered to heal the body and soothe the spirit, distilled into tinctures, balms, and waters that carried the very essence of Florence. By the 1600s, these creations were offered to those beyond the monastery walls, in what would become one of the world’s first luxury retail apothecaries.

To enter today is to feel centuries pressing close; the cool stone, polished wood, and the scent of herbs and blossoms, along with vaulted rooms and frescoed ceilings, whisper a history alive in every breath.

On Via Cola di Rienzo, an elegant and historic street in Rome’s Prati district lined with fashion shops, bars, and restaurants, Bertozzini has welcomed visitors since 1913. The air itself seems charged with the soft layering of bergamot, vetiver, and rosewood, guiding you toward a boutique where every bottle has been selected with the reverence one might reserve for a rare vintage wine.

Generations of Romans, travelers, and connoisseurs have stepped inside seeking more than a fragrance; they come for a presence, an enduring testament, a signature.

These are not merely perfumeries; they are archives of the Italian spirit, a living art where tradition and imagination intertwine, and where scent becomes Italy’s own enduring expression of beauty. It is here, in these spaces devoted to personality and presence, that one begins to understand the subtle intimacy of a scent: how it inhabits a person, tracing the curves of mood and movement, shaping the very way they fill a room.

Luxury perfumer Laura Bosetti Tonatto elevates this intimacy to its highest form.

Each body, each personality, she believes, deserves its own signature scent—one that whispers rather than declares, lingering in memory as much as on skin. She draws from the past as much as the present, recreating perfumes evoked in biblical passages and giving life to scents that feel both eternal and intensely personal. Her artistry has been sought by royalty and visionaries alike: she has conceived a bespoke collection for the late Queen Elizabeth II, a fragrance meant to echo elegance, history, and the authority of presence, while the Royal Family of Saudi Arabia entrusted her with selecting the very essence for the first perfume produced by the Philanthropic Association Al-Nahda, a creation where tradition, ceremony, and individuality converge.

Beyond these singular commissions, she orchestrates collections for the world’s most prestigious hotels and spas, each fragrance harmonized to inhabit its environment as naturally as it settles on the skin. In 2018, her atelier, Essenzialmente Laura, was celebrated as Rome’s finest artisan shop by National Geographic Traveler—a recognition of the rare alchemy she achieves when intuition, mastery, and imagination intertwine.

In every bottle, she captures the delicate poetry of individuality, a language that speaks directly to the soul while leaving a trail of history, emotion, and refined sophistication in its wake.

I was in her perfumery on Via Santa Maria Maggiore, a space that seemed to breathe with the very essence of its creations. The fragrances unfolded like stories, each note revealing itself slowly—a conversation between the air and the skin. I wandered among them, letting the scents find me: bergamot bright and sweet, jasmine delicate and luminous, freesia and peony softening into something almost tactile.

Depending on the hour, the season, or my own rhythm, my personal scent shifts—some days toward fruity warmth, others toward the smoky depth of incense or the memorable allure of musk. Scent is never static; it lives, moves, and resonates, and in that movement, when mist and skin marry, it becomes as personal as a heartbeat—a reflection of self in a language that needs no words.

And as I left, the invisible gesture that had begun this scented journey—the lift of a mist, the shaping of presence—reminded me once more that the smallest things, often unseen, are the ones that define how we move through this beautiful world. – VV

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