By Dylan Dias
Rhythmic, colourful, and ostentatious – the collection of stunning restaurants, scenic rooftops, and packed, neon-lit bars that densify Toronto’s King West remain an echo of its dynamic and evolving personality. Music, dancing, drinks, and dining have all found a pocket here – tucked into the bricked alleyways and open-concept spaces of historic buildings, glassy towers, and elegant Victorian homes. One of these spaces, in particular, made for a joyful, delicious, and memorable brunch on a quiet Sunday afternoon – a perfect example of how this neighborhood manages to hold a little bit of everything inside the pathways of its vibrant streets – that is, Gusto 101.
Rustic, warm, contemporary, and classic, Gusto 101 offers its guests all the charm of a wonderful southern Italian menu – ideal for sharing, as it should be – against the backdrop of an urban, industrial space on Portland Street. Black steel windows, polished concrete, exposed brick, and touches of metal and wood lend a thoughtful, slick nod to a forgotten, more mechanical downtown Toronto, as the restaurant itself is built into the shell of an old auto body repair shop. The result is an inviting sense of both the modern and the familiar, the comforting and the current – much like the food itself.
Needless to say – we ordered quite a bit. Our fantastic server, Tyrell, helped us iron out a relatively plump selection of Italian favourites and made us burst into laughter along the way. He was hilarious, efficient, made great suggestions, and was just cheeky enough to make the entire experience a joy – the best quality of enjoying food at such a personable place.
We started with a delicious, seasonal take on our classic favourite – the Aperol spritz. Though this version, called an Aperol Invernale as a reference to the colder, wintry months, was made with an apple cider and aromatic, autumnal spices alongside its traditional Prosecco. It was a warming, cozier take on the bright, summer-like apéritif – a pleasure to sip and savour. We also enjoyed the velvet, fruit-forward flavours of Gusto’s Via del Sole – a unique, delightful mix of Lambrusco – an Italian sparkling red – with gin, amaretto, fig, and similar winter spices to our earlier apéritif. Sweet, festive, and enchanting.
Then, with a healthy, early afternoon buzz that Tyrell definitely noticed (and hopefully appreciated), we were served some beautiful plates to start our meal. We began with Gusto’s house-made focaccia – rosemary, olive oil, and a generous sprinkling of coarse sea salt. Crisp and golden on the outside, fluffy and supple in the centre – soft, simple, and sublime. There are few things more wonderful than fresh bread. Speaking of which – the zeppole. Sweet purses of fried dough, a zeppole is like a small Italian doughnut – they were pillowy, heartwarming, and paired with a gorgeous, creamy, cinnamon sugar-dusted mascarpone. It was decadence. Tyrell could have kissed me on the cheek and I would have blushed in the same way.
Following that, we opted for the salmone affumicato – a fresh, verdant plate of smoked salmon, soft-boiled eggs, and a collection of accompaniments in an herb salad, pickled shallots, ricotta, capers, and grilled sourdough. Pure, whole, and clean ingredients that come together to form a fabulous bite of food. One of my favourite ways to eat – without the need or desire for too much complexity; good bread, good fish, good cheese, and a bit of citrus. Summer on a plate.
Afterward, it would be far from correct to dine at Gusto and not try at least a handful of their homemade pasta dishes – so we explored that to follow. A cavatelli alla Calabrese – satiating, toothsome little shells with fresh tomato sauce, Calabrian chili butter, a dollop of pristine stracciatella, and finished with delicate olive oil. Gratifying, rich, and acidic in the most satisfying way. Then, one of my favourites, the bigoli alla carbonara. A proper, glistening, bright gold carbonara – velour-like, buttery yolk, salty gems of guanciale, Pecorino Romano, and black pepper held together by thick, generous strands of bigoli. A dish you’d want to take home with you. And finally – perhaps Gusto’s most famous dish – their mafalde ai funghi. Gorgeous, crimped ribbons of long pasta gently dressed in a silken truffle cream sauce with the deep, roasted flavours of porcini, portobello, and oyster mushrooms – finished with Parmigiano Reggiano. Luxurious and soul-affirming – with earthen umami, cream, and cheese. It’ll fill your belly, of course, but maybe also the holes in your heart. Heartbreak is momentary, pasta is forever.
You’d think that would be enough, but we couldn’t resist a sweet ending to our brunch, and indulged in Gusto’s ricotta pancakes and cannoli, as a more traditional choice. Light, whipped ricotta, dark cherry compote, candied pistachios, and sticky maple syrup ornamented our tower of amber glazed pancakes. And our little trophies of cannoli – perfectly crisped shells filled with ricotta, mascarpone, and dotted with pistachio and candied orange. As with our entire menu this afternoon – sumptuous, happy, and full of love.
Gusto 101 is a neighbourhood gem for a reason – its warm, familiar demeanour mirrors the warmth and generosity of its food. Well-made, well-sourced, and well-presented in a way that encourages people to come together over wonderful, soulful plates. Not only a restaurant, but a meeting place. Approachable, delicious, and authentic – the way it should be.
Thank you for the memories! – VV
Photography provided by Gusto 101 and by Amy Pigeon
