By Thomas Pigeon
The truffle has long been the king of culinary extremes and a revered treasure to culinary aficionados worldwide. During truffle season, the magical aroma of this ‘fungi’ will often be found gracing fine restaurants, offering a sensory delight to patrons.
Wikipedia defines the truffle as “the fruiting body of a subterranean ascomycete fungus” (say that 10 times quickly with a mouthful of pasta)! This is not for the faint of heart or those operating on a tight budget. The much coveted white truffles of Alba in Italy have fetched up to 130,000 euros for a single truffle, for what is likely the world’s largest and most expensive truffle harvested to date. The black truffle grows throughout much of Central Europe. However, the white truffles are the most sought after, and largely found in the secret forests of Alba, in the Piedmont region of Italy. Historically hunted in France using pigs to root out their prizes, the French quickly learned that the pigs got to the truffle faster than the hunter/gatherer and, often, had gobbled up the prized truffle before the hunter could arrive. Over the years, the pigs were replaced with dogs with a particular talent to find these catches without consuming the results of the hunter’s labour. The Italians quickly adopted the same hunting style.
Where some see black truffles as a delicious accompaniment to a fine dish of pasta, the true aficionado turns up his nose at these alternatives and patiently waits for white truffle season to arrive (Typically, later October to mid-November). This is when you can expect the appearance of the delicate white truffle: pound for pound likely one of the most expensive food ingredients in the world.
The origin of this magical fungus goes back to the first century and has graced the tables of Kings and Queens, and political and business elite over the years. Every year in Alba, between October and December, this town of 30,000 inhabitants swells to hundreds of thousands of eager buyers and visitors, anxious to purchase and taste these treasures at the International Truffle Fair at one of the abundant restaurants that line the streets.
White truffles average 4500 euros/kg. The value of the truffle is largely due to its scarcity. This ingredient is a rarity that cannot be cultivated and takes an average of 10 years to mature. Truffles typically grow within the roots of Oak and Poplar trees fueled by the clay and marl soil of the Piedmont region. The secret locations, which tend to yield truffles year after year, are jealously guarded by the truffle hunters, who pursue them with a vengeance often in the cloak of darkness in the evening so as not to be followed.
I had the chance to visit Alba and did so during the Stagione del Tartufo (truffle season) and hunt with one of the area’s better-known truffle hunters and truffle tours operators Truffle Hunting Alba. No firearms here, and not hunting as we think about it, but rather a wonderful brisk walk in the forest observing the dogs and handler working their magic. The scenting ability of these specialized dogs is something to behold, as they root out their truffle prey. The truffles are grown under the soil, and these amazing canines can smell truffles up to 18 inches underground from as far as 50 meters away .
Following these dogs, as they excitedly pursue their earthbound treasures, is simply exhilarating. As they discover a truffle or truffle patch, the dogs get increasingly agitated and, when they reach their destination, they gently paw the earth almost as if pointing to the source of their excitement. The handler kneels by their side as they are then released to dig into the clay soil to unearth the white gold destined for the market or the table.
…I queried my truffle guide, with his kind and weathered face, about what he loved most about what he did. He replied in Italian: He replied in Italian: “It’s the joy and love of my dog’s smile when he proudly looks up at me and his expression says, ‘I found a truffle for you’.
As they get closer to the source of their desires, the handler has them back off (typically bribing the dogs with a treat) and then gently removes the last soil away as if unearthing a precious treasure in an archeological dig. The prize is gently unearthed and displayed with pride, then carefully wrapped in a cloth to preserve its integrity and slid into the pocket of the hunter’s jacket for safe keeping. In our outing, we found 10 truffles, which was considered an excellent day. The pungent earthy aroma of a white truffle freshly plucked from the soil is like nothing you’ve ever experienced.
Watching the relationship and the affection between the truffle hunter and his dog is a beautiful thing to behold. There’s a very special bond between a man and a dog in this time- honoured tradition, which adds to the wonder of the day of the field.
A good pair of walking boots and a sturdy walking stick are essential tools for the day. Being in decent physical condition is helpful, as this is not a leisurely stroll in the park.
And when all is said and done, as you retire from a long day in the field, you are greeted in one of the local Alba restaurants with a culinary masterpiece. An initial course of tartare di manzo (beef tartare) was served up and quickly disappeared under a lovely coating of shaved white truffle. Shortly thereafter, the restaurant’s main server approached my table and proudly presented me with his “truffle box”. He opened it with extreme care, as if he is about to present you a selection of the royalty’s jewelry…and rightly so! The aroma was simply intoxicating and almost overwhelming in its pungency. Six or seven choice specimens were presented to us for consideration. I chose a medium-sized white truffle that had been in the earth literally hours before. Our server picked the truffle up with the care of a fine diamond merchant handling a 10m carat gem, and then ever so quickly shaved the truffle paper thin with enthusiasm and panache laying a fabulous coating of white truffle over my pasta. Almost with a crescendo akin to the finish of a great performance at La Scala, and with a wave of his white gloved hand, he proudly proclaimed “Buon Appetito!” The explosive fragrance of “same-day harvest” truffles following the experience of hunting and harvesting earlier that day was truly surreal. Best appreciated without the complexity of other sauces, a simple oil and garlic fresh pasta, smothered in Alba, white truffle is an experience no food aficionado should ever miss. Naturally, this need be and was indeed accompanied by a fabulous big red from neighbouring Barolo.
As the sun began to set on the day of our “hunt”, I queried my truffle guide, with his kind and weathered face, about what he loved most about what he did. He replied in Italian: “It’s the joy and love of my dog’s smile when he proudly looks up at me and his expression says, ‘I found a truffle for you’.”
As much as I appreciated his sentiment and the experience, the real magic happens on the plate and on your palate, as you indulge yourself with the earthy, pungent and the magical white truffles of Alba. If life is an adventure, this is one to put on your bucket list of must-do experiences as you wander and explore the magnificent Italian countryside.
Buon Appetito! – VV
